Clarke County GaArchives History - Books .....Athens And Clarke County 1801-1860 1923
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Book Title: History Of Athens And Clarke County
HISTORY OF ATHENS
and CLARKE COUNTY
1923
H. J. ROWE, Publisher
THE McGREGOR CO., PRINTERS, ATHENS, GA.
BOARD OF EDITORS
CHANCELLOR DAVID C. BARROW
DR. SYLVANUS MORRIS
DR. ANDREW M. SOULE
DR. J. M. POUND
MISS MILDRED RUTHERFORD
DR. W. A. CARLTON
HON. FRANK A. HOLDEN
Athens and Clarke County
1801-1860.
By DR. SYLVANUS MORRIS.
"Haec olim meminisse juvabit."
GEORGIA removed the Cherokee Indians from her soil in the year 1738. All the
upper part of the state adjacent to the Carolinas was included in the counties
of Franklin and Washington. Jackson County was cut off from Franklin in 1784,
and in December, 1801, Clarke was cut off from Jackson. The county has lost
territory to Madison, Greene, and Oconee. The county is named for Elijah Clarke,
a distinguished soldier in the War of the Revolution. The former county site,
Watkinsville, is named for Major John Watkins of Augusta.
In the summer of the year 1801, a committee was authorized to select a site
for the University, which had been chartered by the Legislature in 1795. The
members of the committee were John Mil-ledge, Abram Baldwin, George Walton, John
Twiggs, and Hugh Law-son. They met at Billups' Tavern on the Lexington road, and
went up into the then county of Jackson to the Cedar Shoals of the Oconee River,
where the dam of the Athens Factory is now located. Daniel Easley had a mill
there. He was a Revolutionary soldier, and owned a considerable tract of land on
both sides of the river. This had been granted to him by the state. The date of
the grant in the office of the Secretary of State is 1800. There must have been
an earlier grant. The committee was so pleased with the location, then a forest
of grand oaks, and with the bold spring which used to be back of Phi Kappa .
Hall, that they decided on it for the College. They enjoyed the excellent shad
caught that day below Easley's dam.
John Milledge bought of Easley-633 acres of land, and donated it to the state
for the University. A few wooden buildings were erected on the campus
reservation of 36 acres, and the College opened in 1801. Josiah Meigs was the
first president. By 1803, the Old College had been finished, the first permanent
structure on the campus. The income was derived from rent and sale of land. The
land brought a mere trifle and more than a hundred years later was bought back
by the Alumni for the University. It is worth well over $100,000.00. The early
struggles for existence of the College are not here told. The history of the
University is written by a far abler pen than any ever used by this writer.
The village grew up around the University, and was named Athens. In 1803
there were not a dozen houses in Athens. The only store was on the corner now
occupied by the Dupree Building. It was kept by Mr. Stevens Thomas, and there as
time went by, he amassed a comfortable fortune. He married a daughter of Dudley
Gary. Major John Gary kept the only hotel in the place. It was situated about
the middle of the block on Broad Street toward the river beyond Thomas Street.
He afterward built a commodious house on the block between Clayton and
Washington. His hotel, "The Swinging Limb," was long famous.
Of the people who were living in Athens in 1803, there are no surviving
relatives, except those of Hull, Thomas and Gary. The names, Easley, McKigney,
Wright, Martin, Allen, Lewis, and Hayes are memories only to the delver in the
past.
Among the early residents of the village were Rev. Hope Hull, who settled
here in 1803, Augustin S. Clayton, Major John Gary, Stevens Thomas, who had the
only store worthy of the name, Mrs. Lucy Gary, widow of Dudley Gary, of
Gloucester county, Virginia. Dr. Wright was the first physician in the village.
He came with President Meigs from Connecticut, Col. Nicholas Ware, member of the
Board of Trustees, Dr. James Nisbet, Ebenezer Newton, Mr. Thomas Hancock, Dr. A.
B. Linton, Andrew Graham, who built the largest store in the place on the
National Bank corner. It was a rival to the Thomas store. There the villagers
met daily to settle the affairs of the nation and of the world.
The fluctuations in the growth of the village corresponded largely with the
ups and downs of the College. The only houses were on Oconee Street, and there
were none beyond Dupree Hall and Clayton Street. The houses built between 1803
and 1812 are mentioned by Dr. Henry Hull in his sketches. During that time the
village grew rapidly and the population was increased by new comers. In 1820,
Col. Thomas W. Hamilton moved to Athens from Columbia County, and built a house
on College Avenue, opposite the Costa's. It was afterward the home of John H.
Newton, and Eustace W. Speer, successively. Col. Hamilton's son, Dr. James S.
Hamilton, built E. R. Hodgson's house, (his home until his death) and Mrs. A. S.
Phinizy's house for his mother.
CLARKE COUNTY
Turning now to the county, we find it sparsely settled, very little land in
cultivation. Among the early settlers in that part of the county which extends
toward Madison, we find that John Espy was living in 1795, at what was afterward
Colt's Mill. Among the other extensive landowners were the Matthewses, relatives
of Governor Matthews. Toward Oglethorpe, we find the name of Puryear, for whom
the district was named, William Main, Graham, Morton, Dean, Jennings, Gerdine,
Billups, and Grier, the well-known settler of Chalky Level, Corporal Grier.
In the Georgia Factory District we find the names of Levi Crawford, John
White, Thomas Moore. Among the early settlers in the part toward Walton, were
Jesse Daniel, Duke Hamilton, R. W. Williams. In Kenney's District were Ransom
Nichols, Samuel Kenney, Thomas Mitchell, Samuel Wier, Hugh Neissler. In this
district was also Halscot, the home of Dr. Jackson, father of General Henry R.
Jackson.
The first Superior Court of the county was held in March, 1802, at the house
of Isaac Hill, .on land now owned by Mr. Ashford of Watkinsville, on the
Simonton Bridge road. Hon. Thomas Peter Games presided. For him, Carnesville in
Franklin County was named. The judges who have since presided in the county are
Dooly, Underwood, Clayton, Rice, Erwin, Hutchins, Russell, Brand, Cobb, Fortson.
Athens was incorporated in 1806. There is no record of the names of the first
fathers of the municipality. We can only guess at their struggles with such
weighty matters as street mud, police, taxation, cows, hogs, and goats at large.
As to this last, even in his time, this writer has distinct unfragrant memories.
The first election recorded is for commissioners of the town. Their names are:
Stevens Thomas, Albon Chase, William E. Dearing, Leonidas Franklin, James D.
Frierson, Watkins Baynon, Elizur L. Newton.
In 1833 the plan to build the Georgia Railroad was inaugurated in Athens, and
the charter was granted that year. The road was to run from Athens to Augusta,
but the Greensboro line became the main stem. The Board of Directors was
composed of James Camak, William Williams, John A. Cobb, Elizur L. Newton, Alex
B. Linton, W. M. Morton, and one member from Augusta. The presidents of the road
were James Camak, William Dearing, John P. King, Charles H. Phinizy. The present
incumbent is Jacob Phinizy, an Athens man.
The charter was in thirty days of expiration for failure of
stock-subscriptions. William Williams took a million dollars of shares and saved
the day. That is some money now, but then was many times more. He lived on the
lot corner of Broad and Lumpkin. His land included the Law Building, the Holman
Building on Broad and Clayton up to the line of the old Flisch lot, He built
Princeton Factory. He was from New Jersey, hence its name. The factory was owned
for a long time and operated by Dr. James S. Hamilton, up to his death.
The branch from Union Point to Athens was built in 1841. The cars were drawn
by horses. On the first train to come were Edward R. Hodgson and his wife, his
brother, William P. Hodgson, and his sister, Miss Ann Hodgson. The Hodgson
Brothers established the carriage and wagon factory on Oconee Street. Their
vehicles were known and justly prized in several states. Klein and Martin
maintained the excellence of the Hodgson vehicles, until the factory burned
recently.
A branch of the Bank of the State of Georgia was established here in 1834,
James Camak being president, and Asbury Hull, cashier. It continued in operation
until superseded by the National Bank. The bank building stood on the lot,
corner of Clayton and Jackson. It was afterwards, the summer home of E. P.
Clayton of Augusta, and later was a hotel until replaced by the present buildings.
Among the most prominent citizens of early Athens was. Hon. Augustin S.
Clayton. He married Julia, daughter of Hon. Thomas Peter Games, first judge of
the circuit. Mrs. Henry W. Grady was his grand-daughter. He was judge of the
circuit for several terms, succeeding in office his father-in-law. Judge
Clayton, John Nisbet, William Dearing, and Abram Walker built the Athens
Manufacturing Company, afterwards called the Georgia Factory. This was the first
cotton mill using water-driven machinery south of the Potomac. It succeeded at
once. John White came as superintendent, and subsequently acquired the entire
property. His descendants own and operate the factory today. The Athens Factory
was built by William Dearing and John Nisbet, and was destroyed by freshets
twice. The present substantial brick buildings were erected through the energy
of Superintendent John S. Linton. At a later time, R. L. Bloomfield was
superintendent. The "Cook Armory" was purchased after the War between the
States, and was called the Check Factory. This concern enjoyed a long period of
prosperity, and paid handsome dividends to the stockhoders. Athens checks
commanded the best price wherever they were known.
The Pioneer Paper Mill was built by John S. Linton and Albon Chase. It was
the first paper mill to be established in the state. It cleared sixty per cent,
profit the first year.
The Southern Mutual Insurance Company was moved to Athens from Griffin in the
year 1848. The company was chartered in 1847. The officers the year it began
business in Athens were Asbury Hull, president; J. N. Parsons, secretary. The
Athens directors were Y. L. G. Harris, E. L. Newton, John H. Newton, Albon
Chase, John I. Huggins, W. Letcher Mitchell, W. M. Morton, Henry Hull, Edward R.
Ware, and B. F. Hardeman. Shortly afterward, Albon Chase became secretary, and
held the office until his death. Starting with no capital, under economical and
sagacious management, it has through long years of its existence paid enormous
sums in losses, returned handsome dividends to the members, (sometimes as much
as 75 per cent.) and accumulated a surplus of over a million dollars. The
present secretary, A. E. Griffith, is rounding out a half century of service
with the company.
A telegraph line to Union Point was completed in 1852, but the patronage did
not justify its continuance for long.
The Combs Express Company opened an office here in 1853, with Terrell L.
Lampkin as agent. It was subsequently changed to the Adams, and afterwards to
the Southern Express Company. For thirty years it was under the efficient
management of Capt. William. Williams.
The gas works were built in 1852 by John W. Nicholson and W. S. Grady. The
material used was pine wood, and intensity of illumination depended upon the
fatness of the pine.
The Athens Foundry was established in 1853, and under the able management of
Reuben Nickerson, and afterward of Thomas Bailey, had a long and successful
career. Twelve per cent, dividends were regularly paid for years, and one year,
two extraordinary additional dividends of fifty per cent, each were declared.
The corporators were William P. Talmage, John S. Linton, Edward Palmer, Peter A.
Summey.
One of the hotels of early Athens was the Franklin House, now thfc. Athens
Hardware Company. It is said that the deed to the lots on Broad Street from the
College to Oconee Street contain a condition of reversion should intoxicating
liquor be sold thereon. However that may be, the bar of the Franklin House was
reached by means of a bridge connecting it with a house in the rear. Elizur L.
Newton built the Newton House, corner of College Avenue and Broad Street. It has
outlived all its contemporaries and still stands, having changed its name
several times. It had a belfry and a bell about the size of a locomotive bell.
Its clanging tones warned the hungry villagers that the banquet was spread. The
dinner bell sounded at noon.
The building, corner of Broad and Jackson Streets, was formerly an hotel.
There was at one, time a hotel on Wall Street, wherein President Monroe held a
levee. The two last mentioned ceased to be houses of public entertainment
anterior to the memory of the oldest inhabitant. The Hancock Tavern is mentioned
elsewhere in these sketches.
The Old Town Hall was built in 1845. It stood in the middle of Market Street,
now Washington Street. The basement was where fresh meat was sold. When an
animal was butchered and dissected for sale, it was customary to ring the town,
hall bell to notify the villagers of the fact. Not only town and political
meetings were held there, but theatrical performances by native talent and
traveling barn-stormers.
When the county site was moved from Watkinsville to Athens, in 1871, it was
here that the sessions of the Superior Court were held. Its old walls echoed to
the voices of the distinguished members of the bar of the Western and Northern
Circuits. The greatest speech the writer ever heard was there delivered by Hon.
B. H. Hill.
Athens early in her history provided opportunity for education. Among the
schools for boys were those conducted by James Fulton, A. M. Scudder, Williams
Rutherford, Thomas Seay. The fact that none of them spared the rod may account
for the sturdy intelligence of the men of Athens at a later time. Miss Emily
Witherspoon taught a school for children from 1843 until just before the
centennial celebration of the county and city. At that time she was still alive.
Perhaps a majority of the matrons and maids of Athens of her day learned their
letters at her knee.
The Athens Female Academy was presided over by Rev. Thomas P. Stanley, and in
1845, by C. P. Martin, succeeded by Mrs. Coley.
The Grove School for girls was under the charge of Mrs. E. Bishop, Mrs.
William Gerdine, and Miss Galloway.
In 1857, largely through the instrumentality of T. R. R. Cobb, plans for a
female high school were formed. The school opened in 1859, and was named for Mr.
Cobb's daughter, "The Lucy Cobb Institute." The principal was Mrs. Wright.
Madame Sophie Sos-nowski came to the Lucy Cobb as principal. Through some
disagreement with the trustees, she resigned, and established the "Home School."
It flourished for many a year. Far more precious than the careful instruction
given was the association of young girls with a woman of such lofty ideals,
exalted character, and social charm.
The first newspaper in Athens was established in 1807 by Rev. John Hodge.
Even the name has passed into oblivion. Alexander McDonnell bought the outfit
and published The Georgia Express. In 1814 Samuel W. Minor succeeded McDonnell,
and the paper shrunk to the size of 12 by 14 inches, and finally faded out.
Patrick Robinson followed with The Athens Gazette, afterwards changed to The
Athenian, conducted by 0. R. Shaw. Some years later, Albon Chase and Alfred
Nisbet bought the paper and changed the name to The Southern Banner. Maj. Ben
Perley Poore was one of the first editors. He entertained negroes at his house
after he had been received by the best people of the town. Then and now that is
a little too much for this latitude. The major returned to his native North. He
was afterward assistant librarian of Congress. He never referred to his
experience in the South.
At a later time The Southern Cultivator was edited by William W. White. He
also wrote a book on Southern Gardening. Dr. William L. Jones afterward owned
and edited The Cultivator. The printing plant was where the Y. M. C. A. building
now stands. It was one of the few agricultural periodicals in this part of the
country, and had a wide circulation.
The question may be pertinently asked how the people of early Athens occupied
themselves outside of business. The great event of the year not only for Athens,
but the state, was the University Commencement. It occurred in August. Visitors
from the coast and from other parts of the state came. It was not only a gala
time of much hospitable entertaining, but it was an occasion of political
significance. Public men, candidates for office, and distinguished citizens
attended to meet friends and constituents, and make addresses. Governor Gilmer,
in the "Georgians," gives speeches made by him at Athens during Commencement on
weighty matters of the time. It was a general holiday for the colored
population, and for years until long after the war, the streets were thronged
with negroes, as on circus day now.
Visiting among the ladies and evening teas were quite the fashion. The men of
leisure assembled at some central place, discussed the affairs of the nation and
the village, and went virtuously home. Even to this day it is difficult to get
the male Athenian out of his home after dark. His predecessor did not care to
prolong the day's seance. A prominent Athenian once said, "Athens is the ideal
of a social neighborhood. No man ever sets his foot in his neighbor's house, nor
ever permits a neighbor to set foot in his house."
Young men and maidens found the Botanical Garden a lovely place, wherein to
while away the hours in those occupations which have engrossed their kind since
first there were young people in the world. The writer, though not a resident of
early Athens, has heard from some who participated in these innocent pastimes,
glowing accounts of—the beauty of the garden.
History records a May party given by the young ladies a long time ago.
Amateur theatricals were also popular, and histrionic talent long survived in
Athens. Dancing-as taught in the "Dancing Academy," had almost the stateliness
and certainly the grace of the minuet. Who shall say that the young folk were
not as happy in these amusements as those of this day of jazz and animal dances?
It is recorded that President Monroe visited Athens, and held a reception in
the old hotel on the corner of Broad and Wall Streets. It is safe to say he
nowhere met a more select and refined company. With the exception of President
Taft, other presidents- have not visited Athens, As they did not know what they
missed all we can do about it is to be sorry for them. Pleasures unknown may be
about one's pathway; his is the misfortune to have passed them by.
Not in the line of amusement, but filling a large space in life, of those
days was religious work and worship. From early times Athens has had strong
churches and pastors. Their impress upon the character of the community is felt
today. In Athens religion and education have ever gone hand in hand. The history
of the Athens churches is not part of this outline. One abler to do justice to
the subject than this writer has the duty of tracing the rise and growth of our
religious centers. Outside the churches themselves, however, there were, from
early times in this as in other counties, great gatherings at camp meetings.
Lasting a week, the camp meeting aroused great religious enthusiasm. And
although the enthusiasm frequently ended with the meeting, who shall say it
served no good purpose? If only one of those who "professed religion" became a
sincere Christian, the camp meeting stands justified.
The military spirit was much in evidence and the militia drills, especially
the general annual muster afforded great excitement, and not a little drinking
of "Georgia wine." Dr. Hull in his sketches describes these doings. He mentions
that the state inspector was named Fouche, and was called Foch. This sounds like
prophesy. Under the old military system, the last officers of the Athens company
mentioned in history .were Dr. William Bacon, Captain; and William B. Wells,
Lieutenant. In the War of 1812, the call was made for volunteers from each
county. Captain James Merriwether filled his company with fine young men. Mrs.
Julia Ann Smith, widow of J. L .Smith, corporal in Merriwether's company, is now
living at Wadley, Ala., age 87, and drawing pension for her husband's services
in 1812.
Another company was formed from this county. Both joined General Zachery
Taylor, and did good service at Autosee and Calabee Swamp. A quota from this
county took part in the removal of the Cherokee Indians. They were under command
of Captain Isaac Vincent. Among these the writer knew Asa M. Jackson, Jesse
Daniel, Nathan Cook, William Buchanan. They were refused the bounty because they
sympathized with the Southern Confederacy.
The Athens Guards were chartered in 1855, with the following officers:
Captain, C. B. Lombard; First Lieutenant, Miller Grieve; Second Lieutenant, H.
J. Adams; Ensign, William G. Delony; First Sergeant, John C. Turner; Second
Sergeant, E. P. Lumpkin; Third Sergeant, Thomas U. Camak; Fourth Sergeant,
William J. Morton. The Guards were the favorites of the town. Each private was
adorned with splendor rivalling Solomon's magnificence. Their parades were
marvels of color. The Guards saw service in the war, for four years in Lee's
army. The day of gorgeous uniforms passed with the invention of long range,
accurate fire, small arms. General Lee, when Commandant at West Point, was the
first soldier of a civilized country to suggest inconspicuous uniforms.
The National Artillery of Athens was chartered by the Legislature in 1859.
The Acts do not give the names of the incorporators. The names of the members of
these organizations have passed out of memory. No lists have been discovered by
this writer. It is but one further example of the well known truth, that the
makers of history are not writers of history. The National Artillery was known
in the War between the States, as Troup Artillery, and took part in all the
great battles in Virginia, Maryland, and Pennsylvania.
Hope Fire Company was chartered in 1849; A. K. Childs, Chief Engineer; Eeuben
Nickerson, Captain; C. S. Newton, Secretary and Treasurer. This organization was
called into existence by the fire which destroyed the Athens Factory. It
continued service until the establishment of the paid department some years ago,
1891. The same may be said and more of Pioneer Hook and Ladder Company, which
received a charter in 1860. The corporators named in the Act were Henry Beusse,
Robert T. Hoyt, Richard Hughes, John Bird.
"We have now reached the eve of that dread period of four years of War
between the States. When South Carolina seceded from the Union, other Southern
states, Georgia among the number, called conventions to consider the matter. The
delegates from this county were Howell Cobb, Thomas R. R. Cobb, and Jefferson
Jennings. One of the most ardent advocates of secession in Georgia was T. R. R.
Cobb. All three of the delegates voted for the ordinance. Georgia withdrew from
the Union, and for four years the people of this county abandoned peaceful
pursuits and gave all their energies to the Confederate States.
1860-1865
When Georgia seceded from the Union, the war spirit was unusually high in
Athens, due among other causes, to the fact that T. R. R. Cobb had preached a
crusade for secession with fiery zeal and power.
This county furnished to the Confederacy at least two thousand men. Some idea
of the character of the enlistment may be gained when we note in the roster of
soldiers the names of six Bradberry brothers, twelve Elder brothers, and ten
Bone brothers. Often has it been told that the mother of the Bone boys wrote to
General Lee asking for one of her sons to be allowed to come home and make her a
crop. The letter signed by General Lee himself, saying he needed all her ten
sons at the front was read at the centennial. It is a pity a document of such
interest should be lost.
A copy of The Banner for Memorial Day, 1912, lies before the writer. Gleaning
from it, the commands which went to the front from this county were Troup
Artillery, Captain, Marcellus Stanley, afterwards Captain H. H. Carlton; Athens
Guards, Captain H. C. Billups; Clarke Rifles, Captain, Isaac S. Vincent, who
died en route and was succeeded by Captain J. J. McKee; Georgia Troopers,
Captain, W. G. Delony; Ritch's Company, Captain, J. E. Ritch; Mell Rifles,
Captain, Thomas U. Camak; Johnson Guards, Captain, S. P. Lumpkin; Highland
Guards, Captain, W. S. Grady. Beside these, there were organized for home
defense, Lumpkin's Battery, Captain, E. P. Lumpkin; White's Company, Captain,
James White; Cook's Company, Captain, Ferdinand Cook; Oconee Rangers, Captain,
John E. Turner; Lipscomb Volunteers, Captain, F. W. Adams. Last but by no means
least, that most unique organization, the "Thunderbolts," Captain, John Billups.
Although not enlisted in the Confederate service, they deserve special mention.
The battles in which the Clarke companies were engaged are given, and lists
of the casualties. It is interesting reading to many of the residents of this
county. Perhaps the single action in which this county lost most severely was
Crampton's Gap. Generals Howell Cobb and Semmes were ordered to hold the gap at
all costs. They had 2,200 men against Franklin's 40,000. They held the pass for
twelve hours, and the surviving 139 slept on the field. Among the officers who
fell were Thomas U. Camak, John B. Lamar, and Jefferson Lamar. •One of the guns
of Troup Artillery at the crest of the gap, had the carriage shot away, and was
captured. The writer has never been able to learn whether it was the Helen or
the Olivia. The guns were named for the Misses Newton (Mrs. Lamar Cobb, and Mrs.
H. H. Carlton.)
A complete roster of the troops from this county has been made by A. L.
Mitchell, and is deposited in the court house. That it was carefully and
accurately done goes without saying. Among the severe losses to this county and
the state was that sustained when T. R, R. Cobb fell at Fredericksburg in sight
of the home of his ancestors, He was truly a many minded man.
To deal adequately with the part this county took in the war would be almost
to write a history of-the war itself. Of the gay and gallant youth who marched
away in the early days of 1860, many an one never returned. Ah! Well, while
their loved ones sorrowed, they were assured that of the Confederate Soldier it
can be truly said his deeds are written in history, embraced in poetry and
celebrated in song.
But what of the home folks left in Athens when the men went to war? The women
lost no time in starting to do their bit. In May, 1861, they organized the
Soldiers Aid Society, and set to work sewing, knitting, making garments, and the
innumerable things needed by soldiers in the field. A copy of The Athens Banner,
October 9, 1861, gives the quarterly report of the Society. It shows the
following items: Coats, 301; trousers, 297; shirts, 734; drawers, 624; socks,
348; havelocks, 60; extra garments, 65. The president of the society was a lady,
active in all things in aid of the Southern cause, Mrs. Myrtis Franklin. The
secretary was Mrs. Paulina Thomas, the treasurer, Mrs. Augusta Clayton King. The
members were Mesdames Laura Cobb Rutheford, Susan Dowdell Lipscomb, Elizabeth P.
Hodgson, Mary Nisbet Hull, Y. L. G. Harris, John H. Newton, Stevens Thomas,
Howell Cobb, Susan Golding, Blanton Hill, Sarah H. Rucker, Rosa P. Smith, Thomas
Baxter, Marcellus Stanley, Rosa H. Delony, Petter Summey, Martha S. Lucas, Cosmo
P. Richardson, Walter Mitchell, Henry Brittain, Thomas Daniel, Pleasant Stovall,
A. K. Childs, Nathan Hoyt, Reuben Nickerson, Misses Mary Linton, Sallie Moss,
Ann Hodgson, Seney Dorsey, America Carlton, Lizzie Colt. It is due to those
whose names are on this roll of honor that they should be inscribed in any
sketch of this town.
That the men too old for active service did not shrink is evidenced by the
organization of that unique, historic, military unit, the Thunderbolts. It is a
source of continual regret that the history of the Thunderbolts has not been
written, and now it can not be written. All the members have passed, over the
river. The command was composed of the elderly gentlemen of Athens, men of means
and position. Not even a roster is available. They were not enlisted in the
Confederate service, were organized solely for home defense, refused to be sworn
into the service or to be inspected by staff officer sent for that purpose. As
Private Junius Hillyer fully explained in his protest to the oath, they were
authorized by the laws of the state. The Captain was Col. John Billups. Among
the rank and file were Col. W. L. Mitchell, Dr. Edward Ware, Dr. Henry Hull,
Judge Junius Hillyer, Col. Stevens Thomas, Judge Y. L. G. Harris.
The Thunderbolts were out on several occasions. Some six hundred Yankee
prisoners were brought to Athens by Col. William Cabell Preston Breckinridge,
and corralled on the campus. The Thunderbolts were called out to guard the
prisoners. They also were out to repel Wilson's raiders. A charming sketch of.
the Thunderbolts from the facile pen of T. W. Reed is published in the "Annals
of Athens."
When Wilson's raiders appeared on the height beyond the Paper Mill, Lumpkin's
Battery fired a shot from the hill this side. The enemy veered off, and did not
enter the town. Curious, a year ago, an officer in Wilson's command mentioned
the incident. He said the supposition was that the place was entrenched and
strongly held. Thus the only shot fired in anger by the battery during the war
saved the town from invasion.
The privation, the makeshifts, the lack of comforts, medicines, luxuries,
endured by the people of Athens during the war in no way differ from the
experience of all Southern people. Recital of them is a part of the history of
the South during the war. Many local incidents might be given, some sorrowful,
some pathetic, some ludicrous. Through it all runs the golden thread of patient
courage. The armies in the field were sustained by the knowledge that the army
at home did not shrink from duty.
1865-1923
The close of the War between the States found the University closed, business
disorganized, the farms partially cultivated. Nearly everything was gone, except
the only thing which really matters, the firm and unconquerable spirit of
self-reliance, implanted in Athenians by the example of the men and women of the
long ago.
Athens and the county shared in the destruction visited upon the entire South
by four years of war. A vivid picture has been drawn of the then conditions. The
toll of the young manhood taken by the casualties of war far exceeded the losses
in the devastating wars of the Great Frederick. The accumulated wealth of two
hundred years was swept away. The seed corn and the ox had gone to feed the
hungry soldier, and the plow fell under him as he fought. The slave property was
confiscated. Millions of dollars, the dependence of widows and orphans, invested
in Confederate securities, disappeared by forced repudiation. More than three
million young men and women left the South within a year after the war. After
the army with bayonets, came the more terrible army with carpet bags. The states
were military districts. White men were disfranchised. The Freedman's Bureau
upheld the negro in any contention with his former master. The land thus
devastated was left to the old men, the women, the children, and the cripples to
redeem. No country has ever risen from such a condition except by repopulation
from without.
But the day of miracles is not past. Within a single decade the South had
lustrated her altars, put to flight the political brigands, raised cotton crops
which turned the balance of trade in favor of this country, and thus made good
the debt contracted to conquer her. Political power in Congress was in her
hands; peace and prosperity were in her homes. Henry Ward Beecher, after
traveling through the South at this time, said from Plymouth pulpit: "The
Southern people abound in all the grand virtues that adorn the human race."
The reconstruction period was no pleasanter in Athens than, elsewhere.
Federal soldiers were quartered in the College buildings. The commander's
headquarters were in Phi Kappa Hall. The troops left the usual marks of wanton
depredation on the Chapel. It is strange that there were so few cases of
friction between the soldiers, and the disbanded Confederates. Knox, of the
Freedman's Bureau, had a difficulty with Tom Frierson, shot him in the leg, and
a general riot was prevented only by the intervention of the soldiers.
Clarke County sent two negroes to the Legislature, Madison Davis, and Alf
Richardson. The former was conservative, sensible, and favored peace and order.
He was scarcely a negro, under the definition of our Code, and retained his seat
when the negroes were expelled from the Legislature. Alf Richardson was a
turbulent and dangerous negro, advocating violent measures against the whites.
The Ku Klux killed him in his house, in what is now Oconee County.
The Union League exercised baleful influence among the negroes, urging them
to lawlessness and violence. Their meetings were held in an old shop on the
corner of Hull and Hancock. It was an awesome sound at night emitted from the
deep toned horn, blown about the streets summoning the members. The meetings
were characterized by dire oaths and frightful paraphernalia of skulls and
cross-bones. Except that the members religiously voted the ticket, few crimes
were committed. The Ku Klux kept them in wholesome restraint, and had the
situation well in hand by 1870.
So Athens and Clarke county accepted the situation and cheerfully went to
work. The University opened under Chancellor Andrew A. Lipscomb. The state aided
wounded soldiers, and the attendance began with about 150 students. The
merchants replenished their stocks as far as they could. The high price of
cotton put the farmers to active work. The banks opened, and money began to
circulate. At this time we find the merchants were: grocers, Center & Reaves,
Huggins & Dobbs, Sanson & Pittard, Weatherly & Sons; dry goods, Frederick W.
Lucas & Son, M. G. & J. Cohen, Moses Myers, Jacobs & Michael; clothiers, Charles
Stern, J. Ritch; druggists, Long & Billups, R. M. Smith; confectioner, L.
Flisch; hardware, Childs & Nickerson, Summey & Newton; books and stationery, W.
N. White.
The pulpits of the churches were filled as follows: Baptist, by Mr. Ivey, a
much beloved pastor; Methodist, by that gallant soldier and faithful man of God,
Gen. Clement A. Evans; Presbyterian, by Mr. Burkhead, soon succeeded by Charles
M. Lane, than whom no truer Christian or purer soul has ever lived; Episcopal,
by the lovable, gentle, Christian gentleman, Matthew H. Henderson.
The physicians were Richard D. Moore, the prince of doctors, Crawford W.
Long, who first used sulphurous ether as anaesthetic in surgery, the three
Carltons and R. M. Smith. James Camak was not an active practitioner.
Among the lawyers William L. Mitchell had practically retired, and was
professor in the Law Department of the University. Asa M. Jackson was ordinary.
The other members of the bar were Junius Hillyer, Samuel P. Thurmond, Lamar and
Ho well Cobb, Albert L. Mitchell, Emory Speer, W. Bailey Thomas, T. W. Rucker,
Louis Thomas, and later, Pope Barrow. For some time Georgia's most powerful
advocate and eminent son, Benjamin H. Hill, made his home in Athens.
The Southern Mutual Insurance Company was directed by Y. L. G. Harris,
president; Albon Chase, secretary, counting on the board Ferdinand Phinizy, John
H. Newton, Elizur L. Newton, Dr. Henry Hull, Stevens Thomas, Edward R. Ware, and
B. F. Hardeman.
The National Bank of Athens was organized in 1866. Asbury Hull, Jr., was made
president; F. W. Adams, cashier. Directors were John White, Thomas Bishop, John
W. Nicholson, Albon Chase, and Dr. Henry Hull.
There were two tan-yards in Athens, Doyal's and Kirkpatriek's. All that
remains as a reminder today is the name of the tan-yard branch.
The Watchman was owned and edited by John H. Christy. He was elected to
Congress, but the Republican majority excluded him. The Northeast Georgian was
edited by H. H. Carlton. Both were weekly publications. With the latter,
Pleasant A. Stovall began his career as journalist.
Although affairs were in a most unsettled condition, people, while mourning
their losses, did not mope. A grand tournament was held on the level north of
Judge McWhorter's home. Athens "gathered there her chivalry and her beauty." Men
and women who took part can tell the inquirer today more than this writer knows
or has space to record. The queen was Miss Mary Lou Yancy, than whom there has
not been a fairer daughter of the state.
The first circus to visit Athens after the war, spread the tent on the lot
now occupied by Dupree Hall. Shortly afterward the Hall was built by Mr. Lewis
Dupree of Oglethorpe County. John W. Brumby was the contractor, and McCulloch
the architect. For many years it was used as a theatre, likewise a skating rink,
also a business college, and furthermore, as a dance hall.
In 1866 the Ladies' Memorial Association was organized, a successor to the
Soldiers' Aid Society. The purpose was the fitting observance of Memorial Day,
and the erection of a monument to the soldiers of this county. Faithfully they
have achieved both results. The officers were: President, Mrs. Laura Cobb
Rutherford; vice-presidents, Mrs. Augusta Clayton King, Mrs. Howell Cobb, and
Mrs. Y. L. G. Harris. With indomitable energy, the members set to work to raise
money for the monument. In addition to subscriptions, sundry pay performances
were held. Notable among these was the May party, in which the youth and beauty
(female) took part. The only male performer was Harry Phinizy. He was Cupid.
Miss Millie Rutherford was crowned queen. Miss Marianna Frierson was gypsy
queen. The writer has interviewed several of the participants in this affair.
Their accounts differ widely in detail, so he will not here amplify further. He
was present, but knew but few of the actresses, and can not speak from memory of
their parts.
More notable even than the May party, was the burlesque given the following
week in the Town Hall by the students of the University. Many of the actors have
reached high places in church and state. Especially, two have held the office of
Chancellor of the University.
These festivities were followed by a presentation of Mrs. Jarley's wax works.
This called for performers of all ages and both sexes, and was a brilliant
success. The affair was under the management of Miss Anna Camak. A. A. Lipscomb
of Washington was Mrs. Jarley, and Robert Hodgson was his assistant.
Histrionic talent has never been lacking in Athens, and while light comedy
has been the rule, more exalted roles have been attempted. A public performance
was given for the benefit of the widow of a distinguished Confederate officer
who was said to be in need. The proceeds were returned with the statement that
the lady was very comfortable, thank you.
Musical talent has never been lacking in Athens. Among the notable musical
events was the rendition of the Oratorio of Esther. Between fifty and a hundred
Athenians took part in the performance, which was staged at Dupree Hall. Mrs. J.
W. Brumby was Esther, Mrs. H. H. Carlton, Haman's wife, John Hope Hull, Haman,
and _____ Camp, Ahasuerus. Nothing on so grand a scale has been attempted since
The Haydn Music Club ran successfully for quite a while, and gave enjoyable
concerts. Among the members were Prof. Schirmacher, Prof. Alfred W. Wurm,
Messrs. A. L. Hull, C. P. Willcox, W. W. Thomas, Mrs. T. A. Burke, Mrs. Charles
Stern, Misses Ria Bearing, Nathalie Hamilton, and others.
Cobb-Delony Camp of Confederate Veterans was organized in Athens. There is no
record giving the date or names of officers and members. Hon. H. H. Carlton was
the first commandant. The camp was so named in honor of T. R. R. Cobb, and
William G. Deloney. The latter fell in action. No more gallant soldier ever
carried sabre than Col. Deloney.
Recently the state reunion was held in Athens. The parade would stir the
heart of the most indifferent. If those were men of a conquered army appearances
are certainly deceptive. They were men who redeemed a wasted land and held its
destinies in their hands. Athens out-did herself in hospitable entertainment. It
is a bright page in her history.
The Confederate Cross of Honor was suggested by an Athens woman, Mrs.
Alexander S. Erwin (Miss Mary Anne Lamar Cobb), and has been adopted by the
United Confederate Veterans. Fit was it that Cross Number One should have been
conferred upon her soldier husband. It is probable (though disputed) that his
command was "farthest at Gettysburg." He stood at the high water mark of the
Confederacy.
The location of the buildings in Athens in 1870, public, private, and
business is fully set forth in a series of sketches by this writer, "Strolls
About Athens in the Early Seventies." The business section 'has been almost
entirely rebuilt. Many of the old dwellings have been moved near the street and
the ample grounds are now occupied by houses. Of the families of that time, the
only ones living in the same houses now as then are Dearing, Camak, Moss,
Hardeman (Mrs. J. W. Brumby.) But one must remember that 1870 was some time ago,
and in that time Athens has changed from a town of family residences to a
thriving business city.
In 1871 the county site was changed from Watkinsville to Athens. The court
house, now the high school, was not built until 1876-77.
In 1875 Oconee County was created, and thus Clarke lost territory for the
third or fourth time.
The street railways of Athens have had a checkered career. As early as 1870,
W. B. Thomas built a freight road from the Georgia Railroad depot on Carr's Hill
to College Avenue. It did not pay, and was abandoned in a few years. In 1885 the
Classic City Street Railway was chartered. It was built by Snodgrass of Texas.
The motor power was Texas mules. It was sold to J. H. Dorsey, and in 1889 was
sold by receiver to E. G. Harris. In 1889, E. G. Harris, L. A. Mitchell and J.
T. Voss obtained a charter for the Athens Railway Company. The first cars
propelled by electricity were operated June, 1891. It was sold at public outcry
in 1894, and purchased by W. S. Holman. The Athens Electric Railway Company was
then organized by W. S. Holman, J. Y. Carithers, Albon P. Dearing, J. A.
Hunnicutt, and C. D. Flanigen. Under the able management of the last named
gentleman, the company entered upon a period of success and prosperity. It was
succeeded by the present corporation, The Athens Railway and Electric Company.
The Athens Electric Railway Company developed power at Mitchell's Bridge,
Tallassee Shoals, and Barnett Shoals, and installed electric lights on the
streets, and in the business houses and dwellings of the city.
In 1876 a prohibition law for the county was enacted by the Legislature. It
remained on the statute book until 1890, when the Athens Dispensary was created.
The law for the dispensary was drawn by Andrew J. Cobb. The idea was carried by
T. L. Gannt to South Carolina, and there became a state measure. The dispensary
continued in operation until eliminated by the general prohibition law of the
state. It is interesting that when the great Russian Chancellor, Witte, decided
to take over the liquor business, making the Czar the only liquor seller in the
empire, he sent an emissary to Athens to learn the facts about the working of
the dispensary.
The great event of that time was the building of the Northastern Railroad.
The charter was granted in 1872.
On a warm day, in summer, of course, the town turned out in procession with
mounted marshals, sheet iron band, and the other usual accompaniments, marched
out into the woods, where the Southern station now stands. After much oratory
from enthusiastic speakers, Dr. Henry Hull struck the pick into the ground, the
first work on the railroad. It was proposed to connect Athens and Knoxville,
Tennessee, but it has not extended beyond the terminus on the main line of the
Southern, named by Capt. Hurt, Lula, in honor of Miss Louise Phinizy, now Mrs.
Calhoun of Atlanta. The first train came into Athens in the centennial year,
1876. The record, dated November 21, 1876, shows the following officers: A. K.
Childs, president; John Calvin Johnson, secretary and treasurer, succeeded by R.
L. Moss, treasurer, and T. A. Burke, secretary. The directors were: Howell Cobb,
John White, John H. Newton, J. A. Hunnicutt, T. A. Burke, John W. Nicholson, R.
Nickerson, W. B. J. Hardman, R. L. Moss, C. G. Talmadge, Henry Beusse, Alexander
S. Erwin, Henry A. Lowrance, R. K. Reaves, C. W. Hood, Wm. S. Erwin, and
Ferdinand Phinizy.
In 1879, C. D. Flanigen came to Athens for the purpose of erecting an ice
factory. He decided to try the market first, and sold ice one summer. He found
that most Athenians preferred good well water, and thought iced water unhealthy.
Many people think that way now. Finding the demand not sufficient to justify the
outlay, Flanigen went into other business. He had, however, started the demand
and ice has been sold and used in Athens ever since. Before that time it could
be had at L. Flisch's confectionery (of toothsome memory) for five cents a
pound. An ice factory was started by S. Rexinger but did not succeed. Later, the
present plants were established, and ice ceased to be a luxury and became a
necessity.
In 1885 the public schools were authorized by vote of the people. Prof. B. C.
Branson, now of the University of North Carolina, was the first superintendent.
At first, there were only two buildings, one for white children, and the other
for negro children. With the growth of the city the system has expanded and
expanded, and yet the call is for more and better buildings. But that is another
story. When the court house was built on Washington Street, the old court house
became the high school. The ample grounds and the facilities there are a source
of pride to Athenians.
Any sketch of Athens which fails to mention the fire companies would be the
play of Hamlet omitting that character. Hope Fire Company and Pioneer Hook and
Ladder Company were the pride of the town. Practically every able-bodied young
man was a member of one or the other. When they paraded everybody turned out to
see them. But at a fire they were great. Everybody who could move attended the
fire, and took part in the excitement. Without detracting from the excellent
work of the firemen on many occasions, it is no criticism of them to say that
many absurd incidents marked the occasion. Squirting dirty water on the crowd,
intentionally or not, added greatly to the fun. But saving the furniture out of
the house was a thing to be seen to be appreciated. A gentleman whose house was
near a fire, stood at his gate and refused entrance, except through personal
violence. E. P. Bishop was captain of Hope. He was succeeded by W. W. Thomas.
Henry Beusse was captain of Pioneer. The latter company took many prizes at
state meets. They were welcomed home with banquets and speeches. One long to be
remembered occasion was the state meet in Athens, 1888. The entertainment of the
visitors was lavish to prodigality. The contests were held on Broad. Street.
Athens took her full share of the prizes. In the foot races, Gus Nicholson was
the Athens star. The best time made by Pioneer was 15, April, 1884, at Macon.
They ran 125 yards with the truck, handled three ladders, placed one of forty
feet length, sent a man to the top, replaced ladders in thirty-two (32) seconds.
Captain, E. I. Smith; Drill Master, C. G. Talmadge. Pioneer was never beaten in
any event in which it participated.
Ah, well! These are things of the past which delight a few to recall. The
paid department was organized in 1891, and its management of fires has since
been on the line of strict business. If there is a better department, or more
efficient chief than George MacDorman in the state, it has yet to be proven.
The contract between Athens and Charles E. Robinson of New York, to establish
a system of Water Works was signed in 1882, for a twenty year period, J. H.
Rucker being mayor. The works were established on the branch west of Lumpkin
Street. The supply was not sufficient. Litigation followed. The plant was sold
under mortgage foreclosure, the pipes dug up, the stand pipe taken down, and the
power house burned up, or perhaps down. No other town has ever had a water works
and a fire engine destroyed by fire. We are nothing if not unique! Thirty years
ago this last spring, the bonds for the City Water Works were issued. The works
have been built, have been enlarged by an addition. Athens city water is ranked
by the state authorities as first class, and the bonds have been paid.
The first telephone exchange was installed by the Southern Bell Telephone and
Telegraph Company in the year 1882, with about fifteen or twenty subscribers.
This was only six years after the telephone apparatus had been invented. The
first manager was Mr. James A. Wotton, and he served until the latter part of
the year 1885, when he was succeeded by Mr. M. K. Layton, who served until the
latter part of year 1887, when he was succeeded by Mr. T. M. Bishop, who served
until November 1, 1888, at which time he was succeeded by Mr. H. C. Conway, who
served until his death, April 25, 1913, and J. W. Jarrell succeeded him and is
still manager of this exchange. There are, according to records, as of this
date, 2,419 telephones in service here.
Perhaps the immediate cause inducing the paving of the streets was the havoc
played with them by army wagons in 1898. That winter, three regiments from New
York, Pennsylvania, and New Jersey, respectively, were camped beyond the
terminus of Hill Street. The country was at war with Spain. These troops behaved
well, and made a pleasant impression upon our people. The winter was unusually
rainy, and the mud was an after-thought of the campaigns in Virginia, 1860-64,
and a preliminary to France in 1918. Street paving bonds were issued in 1900.
Sidewalks began to be paved in cement the next year.
Up to the time of the War between the States, little cotton was grown as far
north as Athens. The cotton belt was on the level lands. Since that time, the
introduction of commercial fertilizers has made this a cotton growing section.
Athens has .become one of the chief inland cotton markets of the state. Between
90,000 and 180,000 bales have been handled here in a single year. There were at
one time, two cotton compresses here. The last of them was destroyed by fire
some years ago.
The Public Schools of Athens, 'having been authorized by the Legislature,
were opened in the year 1886-1887, under E. C. Branson as superintendent. The
State Normal School opened in 1895, S. D. Bradwell, president. The history of
these two institutions are the subjects of separate sketches.
In 1845 the Empire State Chemical Company was organized and began the
manufacture of commercial fertilizers, under the management of E, E. Hodgson,
Sr., E. B. Hodgson, Jr., and Harry Hodgson. The oil mill was bought in 1915.
This is one of the most important plants in the city.
In 1899, Hon. John R. White appeared on the street with the first motor car.
It created as much of a sensation, no doubt, as the first buggy owned by Elizur
Newton, had made so many years before. Today there are about two thousand
registered automobiles in the county. Whether or not the drivers thereof own
them is not a matter of inquiry here. The writer has interviewed some four or
five persons who brought the first automobile to town. He settles the
controversy by suggesting that they all came together at one and the same time.
The number of unregistered automobiles is likewise not a subject of inquiry here.
The Southern, Manufacturing Company was chartered in 1902. The corporators
were A. H. Hodgson, E. R. Hodgson, J. M. Hodgson, J. Y. Carithers, W. T. Bryan,
W. C. Ash, and D. F. Miller.
The development of hydro-electric power by the Athens Street Railway Company
is one of the most important facts in our history. Besides running its cars, the
lighting of streets, business houses, homes, at least two cotton factories
operate with electric power. The company developed successively at Mitchell's
Bridge, Barnett Shoals, and Tallassee. And the demand is for more power.
The City Hall was completed in 1904 at a cost of $50,000.00, L. F. Goodrich
of Augusta being the architect, and J. W. Barnett, contractor.
In the years during which Athens was changing from a town of residences to a
business community, the county has experienced steady, substantial growth in
wealth and population. The thriving towns of Winterville, Georgia Factory and
Princeton are evidence of the prosperity of the county. Farm lands have greatly
increased in productivity and value. Improved methods have been adopted, better
breeds of farm animals are being introduced. Diversification, raising food
crops, fruits arid vegetables, rearing of beef cattle, and hogs for market,
attention to dairy products all are freeing the county from the single crop
slavery of cotton. The fact that there are no large estates depending solely on
cotton gives the county an exceptional advantage. The farmers are appreciating
the assistance afforded by the State College of Agriculture. Homes and home
conditions show marked improvement during the last decade. These favorable
conditions are sure foundations of lasting prosperity.
The question may be asked, why this county should entertain a sentiment of
pardonable pride in things other than material. The question recalls an incident
in the life of Hon. Logan E. Bleckley. When a young man he came down from his
mountain home to Atlanta. A somewhat distinguished citizen to whom he was
introduced, asked rather sarcastically, "What do you raise in Rabun?" The prompt
answer was, "In Rabun we rear men." The same may be said of this county. She has
given to the country two governors of the state, four chief justices, one
presiding justice, seven judges of the Superior Court, one United States
Senator, four Representatives in Congress, one Cabinet officer, one Ambassador
to a foreign country, two Confederate Generals, three physicians of more than
local fame, three foreign missionaries, one Chancellor of the University, at
least one scholar whose achievement^ are known throughout the world of science,
and a journalist whose eminent services to state and country will ever preserve
the memory of his genius. Without boasting of the past, let us be worthy of our
predecessors.
Athens is not the home of the ideal, nor the city of the violet crown, nor
mother of arts and eloquence. But she has been always the home of
right-thinking, right-acting, refined, and cultured men and women. While dark
blots have marred her fair escutcheon, they have not dimmed its brightness.
While this writer purposely passes these over, he is reminded that all history
has elements of personal bias. Not many a historian can say that he did "naught
extenuate, nor set down aught in malice."
As we look back over the last thirty years of our history and note the
physical advances that have taken place, their number surprises us. Five
railroads, improved highways, numerous automobiles, paved streets and sidewalks,
ice in common use, street cars, telephones, telegraph lines, water works,
sewers, paid fire department, fire alarms, public schools, mail delivery,
handsome business houses, imposing church edifices, elegant city hall,
commodious court house, these fill us -with pride. We rightfully congratulate
ourselves upon, these evidences of prosperity. But let us not forget that they
were made possible by the men and women of former days. Our priceless heritage
is the unconquerable spirit which laid firm and sound the foundations of
material, intellectual and moral excellence. Theirs was the spirit which, met
cheerfully the trials and sorrows of war. Theirs was the spirit which was
undaunted amid the wreck of war and the horrors of reconstruction. The material
things, the things seen, are the things temporal. The things of the spirit are
the things unseen. They are eternal.
HISTORICS.
OLDEST HOUSE. When the University location was chosen in 1801, Daniel Easley,
from whom the land was bought, was living in a house on what is now Oconee
Street. In 1803, he sold it to Rev. Hope Hull, who occupied it until some time
about 1842. Edward R. Hodgson bought the house from Hope Hull and lived in it
until his death. Horace Martin lived there a long time. The house is now
unoccupied and going to ruin. It is the oldest building now standing in Athens.
Such other buildings as were in existence in 1803, were between the top of the
hill and the river. They all have disappeared.
Old College was completed in 1803. The temporary buildings on the campus
erected between 1801 and 1803 have all disappeared.
BOTANICAL GARDEN. Extending along the ravine from Knox Institute to Waddell
Street was the Botanical Garden. It contained rare trees, flowers, and shrubs
from all parts of the world. It was both a source -of information and a pleasure
ground. Even today, relics may be- found in strange trees in the lots of the
negro inhabitants. Dr. Ward, curator of the garden, lived on the lot now the
home of Lamar Rucker. Among the many curious and interesting trees still
standing is perhaps the largest gyncope in the world. In the garden was planted
the sprig of willow from Napoleon's grave on St. Helena, sent by the French
government at the time of the reintombment to William H. Crawford. The sprig was
received by Dr. Jackson, Mr. Crawford being dead, and by him given to Dr. Ward.
Mr. Crawford was minister to St. Cloud during all of Bonaparte's public career,
and was the only minister of a foreign country who remained in Paris during the
Hundred Days from the return from Elba to Waterloo. If the original tree is not
standing, many willows propagated from it are nourishing in the ravine. Those
who remember the garden have never ceased to regret its destruction, and the
occupation of the site by cabins, and their concomitants.
Knox Institute, under the present efficient management, preserves with
undeserved merit the unsavory memory of Knox, the Agent of the Freedman's Bureau.
ROMAN CHAPEL. In rear of the Roman Catholic Church is a small small wooden
building. It was the law office of Joseph Henry Lumpkin, the first Chief Justice
of Georgia, and of his son-in-law, Thomas Reade Rootes Cobb, codifier of the
laws of Georgia, eminent lawyer, gallant soldier. Here sessions of the Supreme
Court were held, when the court was ambulatory. Here, Lumpkin, Cobb, and William
Hope Hull founded the Lumpkin Law School, now the Law Department of the
University of Georgia. Classes were held there. Afterward, school was held
there. Carlton Hillyer, Benjamin Hunter, W. W. Lumpkin, and others taught in
that building. For a while it was used as a chapel by the Roman Catholics. The
plans for the establishment of the Lucy Cobb Institute were inaugurated in that
building. Thus it has been the scene of the activity of the dominant forces of
civilization, law, education, religion.
CURIOUS TREE. More people have heard of Athens through publications in
newspapers throughout the country of the tree that owns itself, than in any
other way. No one supposes that a tree can be a land-owner. Certainly Dr.
Jackson knew this. But his wish that this tree should not be felled is as
sacredly respected as would be a life estate in it. No one has seen the deed, it
is not of record. The tradition gives the tree an individuality all its own. The
tradition is as firmly rooted as if a writing had been sealed and delivered, and
no doubt the tree is rooted with equal firmness. Unless some steps are taken to
repair the damage inflicted by sleet some years ago, the life estate of the tree
is likely to be much curtailed. Dr. Richard T. Ely, of the University of
Wisconsin, in his great work, "Property and Contract," mentions this tree with
appropriate comment. Dr. W. H. Jackson was a professor in the University, and
father of Chief Justice, James Jackson.
DOUBLE BARREL CANNON. This singular weapon, now gracing the city hall square,
was designed by John Gilleland, and cast at the Athens Foundry under the
supervision of Thomas Bailey. It was proposed to connect the projectiles with a
chain. Thus, when fired, it would sweep away ranks of the foe at one fell swoop.
Often has the account been given of the only firing of the gun with chain shot.
One ball came out before the other. The whirling motion consequent thereon
caused the destruction of a considerable area of thicket, and stampeded the
crowd of spectators. It was never fired again. Thus the Federal army escaped
annihilation, and Athens has the only double barrel cannon in the world.
COOK'S ARMORY. When New Orleans was threatened during the War between the
States, Ferdinand Cook moved his plant to Athens. He built the armory across the
river opposite the foot of Broad Street. He made first class rifles for the
Confederate Army. The Filipinos made their last stand in the crater of an
extinct volcano on the far away island of Mindanao. Refusing to surrender, they
were killed or captured. Captain Edward Lawton was in charge of the party to
glean the field. He mentioned in a letter to his wife, daughter of Major W. S.
Basinger, that he found a rifle, bearing on the lock plate, the inscription,
"Made in Athens, Ga., 1864." The writer asked the War Department to give this
old rifle to the University as a curio. He received a bundle of documents which,
(some of them) had travelled from Washington to the remote corners of the
Philippines. He learned that useful weapons had been issued to the Islands
Constabulary. Inquiry among them all failed to trace the rifle. Useless weapons,
General Pershing had ordered thrown into the sea. This is perhaps the fate of
that old gun, that fifty years afterward had not heard that "The War" was over;
and un-reconstructed, was still shooting at Uncle Sam's soldiers. The papers
contained an official history of Cook's Armory.
HAUNTED HOUSE. The house, fronting on Harris Street between Hill and Cobb, is
known as the haunted house. Jefferson Lamar in that house married his cousin,
Miss Mary Lamar, during the war. In the midst of the ceremony the gas went out.
Shortly thereafter Lamar was killed at the defense of Crampton Gap. This caused
the superstitious to think that the house was haunted. The rear of the house was
much nearer Milledge than Harris. E. R. Hodgson moved it to its present
position, and the "hants," if there were any, quit.
HANCOCK TAVERN. The house stood where the VonCannon-Wall Building now is, was
a tavern on the stage line between the coast and the west. "W. T. Thompson wrote
that part of Major Jones' Courtship which describes the "fantastics" during the
University Commencement in the second floor room on the northeast corner.
Benjamin H. Hill boarded there while attending college. He was a favorite of Mr.
Hancock, who predicted a great career for him.
ROCK COLLEGE. The oldest building on the Normal School campus was built by
the University for a preparatory school. Prof. B. T. Hunter, father-in-law of
Capt. J. W. Barnett, was the principal, and Prof. W. W. Lumpkin, father of E. K.
Lumpkin, associate. Afterward, it was a dormitory and boarding house for
students. It and the adjacent lands were the site of the College of Agriculture,
until the establishment of the Normal School. The building and land were donated
by the University to the state for that school. This building is constructed of
cement and crushed stone. Boxing was filled with this mixture. It was given time
to harden and additions were made. There are no steel rods or other
re-inforcements in the walls. As this building was completed shortly before the
War between the States, in 1859, and is today sound and substantial, there
should be no doubt as to the durability of concrete construction. If there are
any other buildings in the state, of similar construction ante-dating, or
contemporaneous with this one, the fact has not been mentioned. The excavation
for the stone can be seen today. "Who suggested the idea, this writer would much
like to know. From the method of construction the building was known as the
"Rock College."
JOHN HOWARD PAYNE. No sketch of Athens is complete which omits mention of
John Howard Payne. The most complete account of his adventures in Georgia, which
has met the writer's eye, is given in the History of Rome, by George W. Battey,
Jr. Payne came to Georgia in 1835. He was a guest in Athens at the home of
General Edward Harden. He paid his addresses to the daughter, Miss Mary Eliza
Greenhill Harden. Neither he nor Miss Harden were ever married to each other,
nor either to any one else. She lived to a good old age in the Harden, home on
Hancock Avenue, a lady with the graces and accomplishments of a former era. Her
niece, Miss Evelyn Harden Jackson, still owns the house. She has written a
delightful short story of the Payne episode. She has many interesting things
reminiscent thereof. There is a persistent tradition that Payne gave Miss Harden
the original manuscript of "Home, Sweet Home/' the song which had made him
famous. No one has ever seen it, and if she had it, she probably destroyed it
for sentimental reasons. It seems queer that the song (or rather the words)
should have been written by one who had no home except "Home, Sweet Home," and
perhaps had to sing it himself.
MADAME GOUVAIN. All sketches of Athens mention this lady and the interesting
fact of her friendship for the Empress Josephine. Michael Gouvain was Secretary
of President Monroe. They exchanged lands in San Domingo for the "D'Estaing
Grant," which lies partly in Clarke and partly in Madison County. The land was
granted by the state to Count D'Estaing for services in the War of the
Revolution. Madame Gouvain long survived her husband, Michael Gouvain. She had
an attractive French Chalet about where the Georgia Railroad station is now. Her
intimacy with the Empress arose when she lived near Mlmaison. Her sister,
Countess de Villars, was lady in waiting to the Empress. Her descendants in
Athens, Mrs. A. A. McDuffie, and Miss Evelyn Jackson, have interesting letters
from the Empress to Madame Gouvain. She wrote a short sketch of her life which
is reproduced in "Annals of Athens." Needless to say, the D'Estaing lands were
not the rich principality the Gouvains perhaps imagined them to be. She says:
"The long literary of my name is Rosalie Renie Marie Claudine Josephine Yvron
Vincent Dennis, de Kederon, de Trobriand, daughter of Chevelier de Trobiand."
She married first Gen. Ange de la Pierriere, and second, Michael Gouvain.
MADAME SOSNOWSKI. Sophie Sosnowski, daughter of Dr. Wents. Court Physician at
the Grand Ducal Court of Baden, married, in the Strasburg Cathedral, Joseph
Sosnowski, a Polish patriot. Compelled to flee from her home, she came to
America. She was governess in the family of Barnwell Rhett, at whose house the
Ordinance of Secession was drawn. She established a nourishing school in
Columbia. S. C. Her account of the burning of Columbia, by Sherman has been
published, and is most interesting reading. She was highly educated, and an
accomplished musician. But more than these, her high ideals, lofty character,
and social charm were the priceless assets of the Home School. The school
continued until a few years ago, when she died full of years and honors.
CRAWFORD W. LONG. Often it has been told how Dr. Long came to observe the
effect of sulphurous ether in rendering one .insensible to pain. He was the
first man in the world to use this anaesthetic in a surgical operation. He
removed a tumor from the breast of a patient in Jackson County. This man was
living a few years ago. The fact and date are beyond dispute. His house was on
the lot now occupied by the W. T. Bryan home. A memorial shaft was erected a few
years ago, on the campus and presented to the University by Dr. Joseph Jacobs of
Atlanta. He is a loyal admirer of Dr. Long, and served his initiate in the drug
store of Long & Billups, in Athens. The Legislature selected Dr. Long as one of
the two Georgians whose statue is to be placed in the statuary hall in the
Capitol at Washington. No money was appropriated and when the statue is
installed it will be through the work and generosity of friends and admirers.
LEVI CRAWFORD. Before dams were erected on the rivers of the state shad ran
up as high as the mountains. It is unlawful to dam a navigable stream. Levi
Crawford owned a large tract of land in this county. He decided to prove the
navigability of the Oconee River. He built a boat of proper dimensions, loaded
it with clay to build a chimney on his land in Florida, manned it with his
negroes and began his cruise. When he reached the Fontenoy mill, he demanded
that the dam be removed. Being refused, he beached his boat, went to
Milledgeville to lay the matter before the Legislature, with a view of appealing
to the Federal government. Meeting no success, his boat rotted above the
Fontenoy dam. Shad are stopped at the edge of the escarpment, and thousands of
miles of streams are no longer the hatcheries of shad. This writer heard Judge
Erwin say that when he was a boy, he saw fresh shad for sale in Clarkesville,
which had been taken from the nearby streams.
OCONEE GREENINGS. When the trees were cleared from a large field owned by
John White (by him acquired from Levi Crawford) a seedling apple tree was left
near the middle. It had been known to the Indians. Many trees were propagated
from the scions. Oconee Greenings were known and prized beyond the limits of the
state, and even in England. The tree has disappeared long ago, and Oconee
Greenings are but a pleasant memory.
CLEMENT L. VALLANDINGHAM. When Abraham Lincoln was a candidate for
re-election, Vallandingham took the stump for the Democratic candidate. Word
went to Washington, that unless Vallandingham was silenced, Ohio would go
Democratic, and Lincoln's defeat meant Southern independence. Vallandingham was
arrested, refused habeas corpus, tried by military commission, and expelled from
the North. There was not an armed foe on the soil of Ohio, and all her courts
were open. Vallandingham came to Athens, and visited his friend, General Howell
Cobb. After the war, while arguing a case, he handled the pistol to illustrate
the evidence, thinking it unloaded, pulled the trigger, and fell dead, before
the jury.
JOHN JACOBUS FLOURNOY. This gentleman was long a familiar figure on our streets.
Long hair, white patriarchal beard, and rubber coat, worn winter and summer,
rain or shine marked him. He was a man of education and extended reading and at
one time had comfortable means. In old age he developed a mania for what he
called trigamy. He wrote voluminously to distinguished men, various societies
and to university classes. Oliver Wendell Holmes mentions him in "The Poet of
the Breakfast Table." He died in Jackson County and his library was dissipated.
RIVER BRIDGE. For a long time there was a warning sign, at the entrance to
the only bridge, reading: "Any person driving on this bridge faster than five
miles an hour is subject to a fine of $5.00. A negro violating this rule gets
thirty lashes, the informer to receive one-half." (See cartoon in Harper's
previous to emancipation.)
REFUGEES
REFUGEES. During the war a number of persons from the coast took refuge in
Athens. They occupied the University buildings. The following list of names is
taken from the Vestry Book of Emmanuel Parish:
Mrs. Crawford, New Orleans; Miss Crawford, New Orleans; Miss Mary Linton, New
Orleans; Misses Wilkins, New Orleans; Mrs. Font, New Orleans; Mrs. John Huger,
New Orleans; Miss Meta Huger, New Orleans; Miss Emma Huger, New Orleans; Mrs.
William Huger, New Orleans? Mr. and Mrs. C. Baylor, New Orleans; Capt. and Mrs.
F. Cook and family, New Orleans; Misses Roundtrees, New Orleans.
Mrs. W. H. Stiles, Savannah; Miss Gordon, Savannah; Mrs. John Screven,
Savannah; Mrs. J. N. Owens, Savannah; Mr. and Mrs. S. P. Screven, Savannah; Miss
Footman, Savannah; Mrs. Waldburg, Savannah; Mrs. J. H. M. Clinch, Savannah; Mrs.
Warfield, Savannah; Mrs. Griffin, Savannah; Mrs. J. W. Nevitt, Savaniiah; Miss
E. Tschudi, Savannah; Miss Carter Bryan, Savannah; Mrs. Cleghorn, Savannah; Mrs.
Weed, Savannah; Miss Lou Guerrard, Savannah; Miss Kolloch, Savannah; Mrs.
Neville, Savannah; Mrs. Holmes, Savannah ; Mrs. Kennard, Savannah; Mrs.
Stotesberry, Savannah; Miss Stotesberry, Savannah; Mrs. George Kolloch, Savannah.
Mrs. James Bancroft, Charleston; Mrs. Langdon Cheeves, Charleston; Mrs.
Pinkney Huger, Charleston; Misses Cheeves, Charleston; Mrs. Holmes, Charleston;
Miss Holmes, Charleston; Maj. John Barnwell and family, Charleston; Miss H.
Elliott, Charleston; Mr. and Mrs. Carter, Charleston.
Mrs. Rixie, Washington, D. C.
Mrs. Robert, Elizabeth, N. J.; Mrs. S. Elliott, Elizabeth, N. J.
Mrs. Schlatter, Brunswick.
Mrs. Col. Brown, Richmond; Mrs. Heath, Richmond.
Mrs. Farrah, Vicksburg; Miss Ellen Martin, Vicksburg.
Mrs. 0. Owens, Mobile.
Mrs. Kelley, no address; Miss Rixie, no address; Miss Lant, no address ; Mrs.
Beckley, no address; Miss Grigg, no address; Mrs. Girandeau, no address; Mrs.
Gen. Davis, no address.
NAMES OF STREETS
Pursuant to a resolution proposed by A. A. Franklin Hill, a member of the
town council, the streets were named. Many of them bear the names of citizens
who were prominent in those days.
BROAD was first called Front Street. The name was changed when the other
streets received their designations.
WASHINGTON, until recent years, was Market Street. When the name was changed,
Dr. E. W. Speer suggested Washington.
MILLEDGE AVENUE. Governor John Milledge gave the land for the establishment
of the University.
BALDWIN. Abram Baldwin proposed the bill in the Legislature under which the
University was authorized. That bill is the University Charter.
MEIGS. Josiah Meigs was the first president of the College.
CHURCH. Alonzo Church was president of the College. He was the grandfather of
James Barrow.
WADDELL. Moses Waddell was president of the College. His son, William Henry
Waddell, was professor of ancient languages.
FINDLAY. Dr. James Findlay was elected president of the College. During the
summer immediately after his election he travelled to collect money for a
library. He died of fever before exercising his duties as president. James and
Louis Camak are his descendants. He founded the University Library.
CLAYTON. Augustin S. Clayton was judge of the circuit, and one of the most
progressive and prominent citizens. Henry Grady married his granddaughter. Judge
Clayton's house was at the corner of Clayton and Thomas Streets. Here his widow,
daughter of Hon. Thomas Peter Games, lived for many years.
LUMPKIN. Hon. Wilson Lumpkin was a member of Congress, and Governor of the
State. His granite mansion still stands at the west end of the Agricultural
College. Atlanta was named Marthasville for his daughter, Martha Atalanta Lumpkin.
HULL. Mr. Asbury Hull was the first president of the Southern Mutual after it
was moved to Athens. He built the house, now the Morton home, than which there
is none in Athens and a few in the state handsomer.
THOMAS. Mr. Stevens Thomas, the principal merchant; of his time, had his
store where Dupree Hall stands. His home was in rear of the store, fronting
Thomas Street.
CHASE. Mr. Albon Chase was secretary of the Southern Mutual after the company
was moved to Athens. His house is now owned by the Yanceys.
HARRIS. Col. Jeptha V. Harris was a prominent citizen of Athens. Capt. J. H.
Rucker and Hon. T. W. Rucker are his grandsons.
Hon. Stephen W. Harris lived where St. Mary's Hospital now stands. Mrs. John
W. Brumby is his grand-daughter. For which of these two the street was named is
not recorded.
POPE. Mr. Burwell Pope was a wealthy resident. His widow lived for many years
in the house which stood where the post office now stands. Mr. T. P. Stanley and
Miss Sallie P. Stanley are his grandchildren.
BILLUPS. Col. John Billups, a prominent citizen of Athens, lived in a
handsome colonial mansion on the lot where the Crane family reside. Mrs. Ben
Barrow, Mrs. John Carlton, and Mrs. Henry Carlton are his descendants.
HILL. Mr. Blanton Hill was a successful merchant and lived where the First
Baptist Church now stands. His widow and his -daughter, Mrs. W. G. Noble lived
there for many years.
HANCOCK AVENUE. Mr. Thomas Hancock lived in the house which gave way to the
VonCannon-Wall Building. It was at one time a stage tavern. He gave the land on
which the First Methodist Church and parsonage are built. Miss Marianna Frierson
is his great-granddaughter.
PRINCE AVENUE. Mr. Oliver Prince lived near what is now the Normal School. He
was the author of Prince's Digest of the Laws of Georgia. He was drowned in
shipwreck off the Carolina coast. Miss Basiline Prince is his grand-daughter.
Mr. Bishop was on the same boat. He came to take charge of the Botanical Garden.
DEARING. Mr. William Dearing was the second president of the Georgia
Railroad. Mrs. A. R. Nicholson, and Mr. Albin P. Dearing are his grandchildren.
Mr. Bearing moved to Athens from Charleston in 1821, and engaged in business. He
built the house on the northeast corner of Thomas and Washington, and lived there.
HOYT. Br. Nathan Hoyt was for thirty years minister of the Presbyterian
Church. His house was next that of Br. Ware, afterward the home of Br. Lyndon.
Hon. E. T. Brown is his grandson.
REESE. Dr. C. W. Reese was a physician and lived in the house, corner of
Pulaski and Hancock, opposite the Roman Catholic Church. Mrs. A. A. McDuffie is
his grand-daughter. He served as surgeon in the Italian army for eight years.
DOUGHERTY. Mrs. Puryear, a widow whose husband was murdered by his negroes,
moved to Athens and lived on the present city hall lot. She married Maj. Charles
Dougherty. Her two sons, Judge William Dougherty, and Hon. Charles Dougherty,
rose to distinction in the state.
JACKSON. Dr. Henry Jackson was professor in the College, chief of legation to
St. Cloud under William H. Crawford, father of General Henry R. Jackson, and
author of the "Red Old Hills of Georgia."
PULASKI. Why Count Pulaski should have been honored by having an Athens
street named for him is one of the "amiable and admirable secrets" of history.
Some admirer, no doubt, suggested the name.
WHITE. Mr. John White was owner of Georgia Factory, largely instrumental in
organizing the National Bank of Athens. A number of his descendants are
prosperous and prominent citizens of Athens and Clarke County.
BARBER. Mr. Weathersby Barber lived near Linton Spring. He was a keen
observer of nature in her many moods. Many a quaint saying of his, replete with
wisdom, is recalled by old people. He had a broad vein of humor. Many amusing
incidents might be told but for lack of space. He was named for a Cherokee
Indian Chief, his father's friend.
FRANKLIN. Mr. Leonidas Franklin, whose widow survived him many years, was a
resident of early Athens. The house was a gem of artistic taste and beauty, and
stood on Prince Avenue, nearly opposite B. K. Lumpkin's house. The dramatic
talent of Athens here essayed productions from "The Lady of Lyons" upward and
downward. Miss Mary Franklin is a daughter of Col. Franklin. Her fame as an
artist needs no mention here.
COBB. John Addison Cobb came to Athens from Jefferson County. He came
originally from North Carolina, His two sons were among the most distinguished
Georgians. Howell Cobb was successively Governor of the state, Speaker of the
United States House of Representatives, Secretary of Treasury, and General in
the Confederate Army. T. R. R. Cobb was a distinguished lawyer, codifier of the
laws of the state. The code is unique among the law books of the world. He was
delegate to the Confederate Constitutional Convention in Montgomery. The
original draft of the Constitution is in his handwriting. He was a General in
the Confederate Army, and fell at Fredericksburg.
BAXTER. Thomas W. Baxter came to Athens from Hancock County in 1831. The
Baxter lot was the square between Hill and Meigs Streets. His widow gave
generously for the building of St. Mary's Church, which is named for her. Her
daughter, Sallie, was a great belle, married Edge worth Bird, moved to
Baltimore, lived on Mount Vernon Place until her death a few years ago.
HENDERSON. Dr. Matthew H. Henderson was rector of Emmanuel Church for years,
beloved by all who knew him. He married Miss Ada Screven of Savannah.
BLOOMFIELD. Robert L. Bloomfield came to Athens from New Jersey, was
superintendent of Athens Factory, ardent and active member of Emmanuel Church,
built St. Mary's, made generous gifts to it. Dr. James C. Bloomfield is his son.
CHILDS. A. K. Childs was head of the firm of Childs & Nickerson. His house is
on the corner of Clayton and Thomas Streets. Reuben Nickerson afterward owned
the house and lived there. Mr. Childs bought the Lumpkin house on Prince Avenue,
now the Y. W. C. A., and moved to it. Walter L. Childs, and Mrs. Chancellor
Barrow are his children.
STRONG. Elisha Strong was an Athens merchant. He lived on Jackson Street
where the public school building is now situated. He was the son of Charles
Strong, a Revolutionary soldier, who came from Virginia to Oglethorpe County.
Charles Strong's daughters were Mrs. Golding, Mrs. Pope, Mrs. Moss, Mrs. Newton.
His descendants among us today are the Gerdine, Linton, Moss, 'Stanley, Newton
families.
GRADY AVENUE. William S. Grady, head of the firm of Grady and Nicholson, was
wounded in the war, and died of his wound. He bought the house now owned by J.
H. Beusse, from Richard D. B. Taylor. Hence it is known as Henry W. Grady's
boyhood home. The house was built by General Robert Taylor. It burned the night
it was completed, and was rebuilt as it now stands. The contractor confessed
that he burned it, in order to have the contract to rebuild. General Taylor
built E. K. Lumpkin's house for his son, Robert G. T. Taylor, and also the house
on Cobb Street for his son, James J. Taylor. He has descendants in Athens and
elsewhere.
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